Remembering my first bicycling tour, seemingly so long ago, and yet so apparent, as I remember how much fun it was when I speak on it time and time again. Don’t know if I have some photos of it but if I do I am certain that I will add them to this mix soon as I can get it done. Since July is Bicycling & Health Month it seems appropriate to speak on what really got me started on my first real tour from Salinas, to Big Sur and North to Half Moon Bay and back again. In total this was about two weeks worth of riding and camping going south to north and back again, my first tour but no doubt not my last.
Along the way meeting interesting people who were on a similar journey going to their own destination, but all in all this select group of people with whom I had an opportunity to associate will also be remembered. As they each brought something more to the mix to my understanding of what Bicycle Touring is really about. These were people who followed a similar wavelength as they chose to camp instead of stay in Motels as they traveled North or South by Human Power. Most took the trip because of the beauty of Highway 1 and the wonders of the Pacific Coast Trail, a route that follows along the amazing California Coast from Canada to Mexico. Some were going as far as Tijuana, others far as South America all by bike and through human mobilization. Carrying Tents, Pans, Sleep Bags, all packed compactly into the Panniers of the bike, many of which were both front and back. How many bicycle tourers get around, at least those who have decided to keep their journey low impact. Here I was with only my rack and everything I needed for the bike tour that even at the time I was not sure where I would go with it, all packed into a backpack, the tent on top, must of been quite the look of a bike that was a bit overloaded, particularly since at the time I was riding a Schwinn Ranger 2.6fs that I had only recently purchased from Target, as even before that point I was a constant bicycle commuter. Partly because it made sense and partly because before this first tour I was working in a warehouse, Central Cold Storage in Castroville, and traveling from Salinas Monday through Friday, The nice thing was that the job even if it was not such an exciting one was through a temporary agency, so once the job is done I get paid and I could take the trip, even with a budget of only a couple hundred dollars. I found that really you don’t need that big of a budget when taking a tour for week long trips or so, and since I had seen from Ken Kifer’s (may he rest in peace) advice on taking a low impact bike tour, that included camping and increased level of self sufficiency. Enabling the person who is traveling by human power to travel immense distances and camp where he/she could, not unlike the Indians of old who traversed the lands and camped as they went, to find the best food in the hunt to bring home to their family after the journey was complete.
In that there are dual options, since you are basically self contained you can travel anywhere you like and just as long as you have food to eat you can really just keep riding on, and certainly I understood this but since it was my first tour, I followed the route many have done before to stay in established campgrounds, to go to the store to get my food and to cook it on my aluminum sterno stove which seemed to work quite well for the needs of a relative student of bicycle touring. Certainly there were other options, but I saw this at Safeway here in Salinas and picked it up before my departure to destinations unknown. Along with finding the lightest and easiest, items, snacks, soups and the like that could easily be boiled or heated up, so as to only carry with me the bare necessities as far as food goes I was about finished with the shopping before the great ride that was yet to come.
Initially I figured I would take a ride to Big Sur, because as always for many a bicyclist that is a great draw, the sights are amazing, the route spectacular even if not entirely bicycling friendly, as Highway One, well is a highway, and as a result of that there is not much of shoulder, but most drivers on that road seem to be more accepting of tourers, partly because they are most likely tourists as well and since Highway One is always such a busy route for cyclists going North, South or just cruising the route for the experience. Not to mention such camping grounds as Pfeiffer State Park, Andrew Molera, and Kirk Creek Campground. Also Highway One has also been a part of the Amgen Tour Of California, Sea Otter Classic and so many more. With Highway One’s Climbs and Downhills, amazing vistas this same route has been the subject of many books, to many to list here, so really Highway is a premier location for bicycling tours, or any sort of tour as can be seen by the RV’s sometimes seen or the wide variety of vehicles, including motorcycles, it is so famous in fact the local Public Transit System, Monterey SalinasTransit has bus 22 that drives from Monterey To Big Sur Nepenthe daily through the summer months and for special events. As a result the awareness of this route spreads worldwide, for it’s unique experience and astounding vistas and views of some of the most beautiful coastlines Pacific Ocean on the west coast of the Americas.
My first destination on this great ride, was to be Salinas to Monterey, to stay at the Veterans Memorial Park as I had been there previously, as more or less a scouting run, to see how it would be to ride from Castroville to Monterey and up Skyline Boulevard to the top of the hill and stay at this particular park. As I had also received a recommendation from a good friend of mine that Veterans Memorial is a good park and the price not so bad at 7 dollars a night to stay in the Bike & Hike Area. To explain a bike and hike area, is usually attune to a community based area, with common space, using the example of Veterans Memorial, the bike & hike area is just off the main road with a long picnic table in the center with space enough for multiple tents in a groved area. Generally at least when I went there, there was about three others besides myself who had stopped there. We each had our own tent, but to eat we basically came together at the main table. Which worked well because oftentimes, in my experience at least most serious bicycle tourers, always are pretty friendly and can appreciate the effort you made to get there as they had done the same on a bike up the hill to camp at Veterans Memorial. So in that sense the community based hike & bike area often became an interesting place to just chat about the topic we were all passionate about, that of bicycle touring or bicycling as a life choice.
As it was my first day out, upon arrival at Veterans Memorial Park, I noticed that on my back rim there had been almost a complete wheel failure with a total of four spokes had broke of about 36 on that rear wheel on this Schwinn Ranger. I did not find that out until I was at the top of the hill and looked at my bike as it had become a bit more difficult to pedal that last part of the route even though I still did. You see a bicycle wheel is usually consistent of 36 spokes whose only purpose is to work together to balance the wheel, keeping it true, which in it’s simplest terms is to keep the wheel balance between the brakes, usually caliper or disk that would otherwise be ineffective when the wheel is out of true. For example if a wheel is out of true there is a tendency to have alot of drag thereby slowing the movement forward. In my particular case though it was nearly wheel failure as the system nearly failed. So to remedy that situation I took a ride down to Monterey with only my front brakes engaged while my back brakes were not. Fortunately for me though I had become used to working with the breaks bit by bit, as the front brakes are far more effective at stopping, so the downhill from Veterans Memorial was fast but I made it down and stopped over at Aquarian Bicycles in Monterey where I was able to purchase a whole new rim and have it installed the same day. Which worked out well because I was able to get back on the road for the next stage of my trip relatively quickly. Aquarian Bicycles though not my first choice did their job well at this particular time and for that I was appreciative and since then I have been back but my personal favorite shop would have to be Bear Bikes here in Salinas, because the owner of the shop Brian does his job well and makes sure you get the right parts at a price that is not to excessive.
Well once I had everything back operational and Aquarian took care of it, though if anything the price was a bit steep, I headed in the direction of my next destination, which was to be Big Sur, Pfeiffer State Park as mentioned earlier. I headed out to the Monterey Bay Coastal Bike Trail en route to Pebble Beach where I planned to connect with Carmel Highlands, so the ride through Pebble was pretty fast, but later I realized I had missed quite alot of what Pebble Beach had to offer but that is a tale for later. Upon connecting to Highway 1 via Pebble Beach, after going against traffic in order to connect to the right point, I finally just decided to go with the bus, remember this was my first tour and it seemed the stretch of Highway I needed to travel to connect to Carmel Highlands was not available to bikes, of course it did not make much sense but I just went with it not knowing about an alternative route there. So I jumped on the bus, paid my fare and loaded up my Schwinn on the front bicycle rack, getting off the bus at the Point Sur Lighthouse. Which in and of itself has an amazing history behind it, and on that day I figured it would make history for me to as it was the first starting point along Highway 1 in my very first tour, it was the point where I started to see how amazing touring by bicycle can be. I am happy to report this was the last time I rode the bus for all the rest of my bike tour was by my own power, on my Schwinn with the one backpack on the rack and the tent everything I needed packed not so neatly on a rack with a new rim beneath it.
From Point Sur Lighthouse I continued southward heading towards Pfeiffer State Park, as that was to be my first location to camp for the night, and I made the most of the day and my time in the saddle by cruising along and enjoying the scenes. Now Highway is no ride in the park, most of that route has some amazing hills 15% grade or more on occasion, and when you are traveling by human power it can be difficult, unless you decide to focus on the eventual descent, after the amazing climb that rewards you with astounding vistas of being able to see the wonders of Highway 1 and Big Sur for yourself, as the route also offers turnouts, a chance to get off the road and look out over the ocean and it’s unadulterated view of this amazing coastline. To add to the enjoyment of the ride I met another cyclist, using his touring bike loaded only a bit both with front and back and we talked for a bit. I tell him I was making 7mph up the hill and for me that was exciting, maybe not in comparison to his bike but the big difference was he is on a touring bike and I was on a mountain bike, and difference in tires and size of bike as well as design, all are contributing factors to getting the best ride out of the machine. Nonetheless I was proud of my 7 mph uphill as previously never was quite that fast, since then I have improved, in fact in these days on a good day with not to steep a slope I can make the uphill at around 15-20 mph depending on wind and other contributing factors. The good thing about this cyclists I met on the top of one of the hills of Big Sur overlooking an amazing ocean is he congratulated me on that pace up the hill, and made me feel good about taking the trip and for that I am forever appreciative.
Once I took the time and enjoyed the chance to relax after the climb I was ready to go, as those kind words from an unnamed bicyclist who was on his own tour invigorated me, and made me want to go more and go farther, to improve my climbing speed and to really make the most of this journey, this amazing experience of a tour by human power along one of the most amazing highways in California. This of course was only the beginning, and it just keeps getting better, as I begin to recall the many experiences I had on that one singular journey in human mobility.
There of course were more hills, but you know once you overcome one the others become easier, as you learn to set the rhythm and pace to make that climb the most successful ever, as a challenge in and of itself to improve your self in becoming a better bicyclist, not unlike a sailor who once establishes his sea legs is more effective in his objective to tour the seas and be steady on his feet just like being steady in your pace. The wonderful thing about bicycles is really you choose your own pace, you are not in a race, not trying to break speed records, you are just enjoying the air, the experience and the journey as it is a lesson in growth of who you are and the confidence you have in yourself as a person. Remembering the way we as people once were, as self sufficient sentient beings who are experiencing life in our own way. The days of times past where we were not so concerned with having the latest and greatest toy’s we had a garden and we grew our own food. Convenience was nice but not so apparent. rather being happy about what we did ourselves not what someone else did for us, and then said we need to use this paper called money to go and buy somet4hing.
Another hill past another climb coming soon, but I was in the zone then, feeling good, moving forward and handling the hills one after another improving each time, certainly I took a few more breaks but not so many as I had a renewed energy, the excitement of what will be the next sight to be seen, the feeling of blood flowing through my legs my muscles working hard but feeling good because of it. A loaded bike seemingly becoming like nothing but a feather as each hill had a nice downhill, where I would cruise or I would pedal just to see how fast I could go. Of course I was careful to, because any mountain road has many turns and twists and you need to always be in control of your machine, to be able to work the breaks enough to slow down just to accelerate moments later. All seemed well I was coming down off another mountain moving fast close to the side of the road … and suddenly I feel something hit my shoulder, I did not fall or shudder I just wondered what it was and why it had hit me. Later I found out that as I was going down the hill there was a point near the bottom, where there were multiple cars in my way parked on the shoulder so being a good bicyclist I moved out a little bit into the road to get around them safely. It was at this same point that a truck was driving behind me and apparently his right mirror had hit me on the top of my shoulder, fortunately the mirror was designed, as most newer trucks are to collapse inward when it hits something, and this time it hit me. He stopped and asked how I was, I said “I’m fine thanks …” and we both went about our merry way to wherever each was going. I was fortunate it was nothing serious, but the lesson was learned hopefully for him as well as me that it is still important to be careful no matter what type of vehicle you are driving.
That would probably be the only real down point of this entire tour, well that and the failed wheel, but it was minor, no one was hurt and I kept riding, at this point I had come upon more or less a flat stretch so just cruised along, cars kept passing me by but I paid no real attention to them, instead I was focused on the ride, on the future and on the destination I had nearly reached. As I passed places such as Ventana Inn, and other numerous other motels, variations of campgrounds I came up on Pfeiffer State Park, took the turn and cruised in, looking around, trees surrounding me the sounds of the woods about me, except for the cars but there was far less of those now then on the main stretch of Highway 1. Just the drive into Pfeiffer on my bike made me slow down a bit and take in the sights. It was amazing, just to cruise along breathe the fresher air usually a result of the abundance of trees, the natural beauty surrounding me even if I was driving up a paved road. When I arrived at the entry station I looked inside, there was a nice looking girl in there, and we talked for a bit, I wanted to know about the campground and where there was Bike / Hike Areas, and found out the price was quite manageable, specifically for bicyclists, it cost me about 10 dollars for the night there, though a bit more expensive then Monterey I soon found out the price was well worth it.
As Pfeiffer State Park, has a plethora of services available to those who camp there, including a general store, campfires, plenty of simple hikes and longer ones if you feel up to it, all in an environment nearly devoid of all ideas of Civilization. Which was one of the things I was looking for in a campground, though there was plenty of amenities if you really wanted to revisit what otherwise would be considered society, places such as a laundry room and the like. The point being that Pfeiffer presents both sides of the equation dependent on what brought you there. When I learned about the Bike & Hike area though I was even more pleased, as far as it went. The hike and bike area was near the front gate not to far in, there was a bathroom nearby with showers that even though they cost you a few quarters were usually pretty warm and in the bike and hike area it was a nice meadow with multiple optimal locations to pitch tent, all within a grove of redwood tree’s and individual picnic tables and a fire pit. When I was there not so many at that location, as I understand it many went farther south to Kirk Creek Campground which seemed to be a good location for camping based on recommendations from Adventure Cycling Association as many seemed to be following their guide then ones such as Lonely Planets Pacific Coast Guidebook which admittedly I was not using at the time but have heard many recommendations in more recent experiences from other bicycle tourists was brought to my attention. The general consensus is that both Adventure Cycling and Lonely Planet provide great guides to experiencing the Pacific Coast trail fully, but as the first time bicycle tourer, I had not idea at the time but after the tour I learned quite alot. Within the redwood covered grove I set up tent, brought out my trusted Sterno Stove and made my dinner, soup if you had not guessed it. It was a good dinner though none the less. I don’t really go to much into the menu planning on this tour as each person is different but my objective is to speak on more of the experience not the food I ate each night.
After dinner I decided to lay down, to take some time to just listen to the silence, to the forest, to let my mind relax and my body enjoy a well earned rest in a wonderful place. The night was not so exciting, I had a few conversation with the few other cyclists who were there but not so much as in Monterey, instead as I laid down to sleep I thought about how much of a journey I will have tomorrow, when I was expecting to ride out to Andrew Molera State Park and stay the night there then choose to either go south or go north to experience something different and to find new places and new experiences yet to be had. It was nice to be able to just relax there, not have to worry about nothing, just experience it for what it was an opportunity for relaxation and self reflection. The surrounding redwoods and the silence of the forest was about me, and in that natural environment clarity of thought came much more easily then it would otherwise come when I am at home or in the city. With that uh huh moment I closed my eyes and slept to the sounds of the woods, the most relaxed I had been in a long time.
As I awoke the next morning, to the pleasant dew in the redwood grove I stretched a bit and took some deep breaths, to enjoy fully the air that was so much more clear in this forest then it was in the city, some of the others were just waking up to so we chatted a bit and I made some breakfast, oatmeal seemed a good idea, using my trusty Sterno stove I took my time in warming the water and then making the oatmeal, something so simple yet so tasty at the same time. To be made with a simple stove and to be experienced as fuel for the ride up ahead, it was nice a good opportunity to think some more about what is next on this journey, at this time I had no idea where I expected to go I just figured I would do my best to experience it fully because it made sense to me and really in my opinion sometimes a tour that is more off the cuff then planned can make for a much better experience, again going back to what Ken Kifer (RIP) that he did not usually plan out his trips he just went and found out where it lead him. I figured I would follow suit and see where I would end up, there was minimal planning sure but at the very least it was better to just go and crank the pedals to see something different and explore something new.
That was the objective as the next day truly begin, breaking camp and minimizing the space it would take on my rack and pack, everything I had used the night before all fit quite nicely into the backpack, once the sleeping bag was put on the bottom and the pack was properly laid down, using the old standby of jumper cables to secure the pack so as I rode it would not fall off the rack, and then putting the tent on top securing it as well and I was ready to go. As I look back I must of been quite the sight but I was not trying to follow suit, or to do what others had done. Instead I was approaching it as best as I was able. At that time I did not even have panniers though I knew what they were so my entire design was a very simple one. I always figured a minimalist approach to a tour can be a good thing, so as not to carry to much when it is not entirely necessary to really carry anything but the basics. Not to mention the fact for all intensive purposes, this was my first tour and in that idea, was to be definitely a learning experience. Indeed that was what this was becoming.
With everything all packed up, and after checking my bike for any issues that may become major before the journey really begin again I was on my way, pedaling slowly at first as I was warming up one rotation at a time. After following the road back out to Highway 1 to continue my journey south headed towards Andrew Molera State Park, even knowing it was not the most amazing park, I liked the view it afforded once you arrived, and the fact that Andrew Molera is a more primitive park, meaning it has less of the necessary amenities, and it is usually presented as a walk in or bike in park, that presented a wide open meadow for camping, numerous trails and a beautiful view of the mountains where watching the sunset is a rare treat. Along with easy access to the beach and if you so choose you can also take a horseback ride with Molera Horseback Tours. One of the main reasons this was decided as the next location is first because there is history there, as a family used to go there, and of course there are many other good memories of taking that trip both in a car, on a bus, where I met a young girl who was traveling to a protest and going about it while backpacking across the country. She had some amazing stories to tell and every single one of these stories told by other bicyclists, hikers, backpackers just made me want to to keep on, to continue this exploration of the world on two wheels or by anything human powered. whether walking or bicycling.
Really the route to Andrew Molera was not to far since I was already on Highway 1 but as always this Pacific Coast Trail was always full of new sites and experiences, things to see chances to stop when you are following it at your own pace the legs working the wheels turning crank by crank up the mountains for the amazing vista at the top, rewarded with a nice long and fast descent if you chose it. At this time in the journey I decided to go with a much more relaxed approach, not so much pounding pedals down the hills but instead just cruising along working the brakes as necessary to keep control at the next corner or turn. It seemed it went fast but the sights were seen and the experiences had.
For every time I cranked the pedals, I knew I was one step closer to another location I may not of seen in quite the same way if I never took the time to take a ride instead of just drive the same stretch time and time again. When you travel such a beautiful stretch by your own power at your own chosen speed, the opportunity presents itself sometimes to just pull off to the side and enjoy the scene, to look out over the water and know in any other way this experience would not of been the same. As at your own pace, you can stop awhile by choice, without the pressure of the other drivers who seem to be in to much of a hurry, to get wherever they feel they need to get to so quickly. On a bike you go at your own pace, no one is trying to hurry you up, you are not polluting the environment so much as most of the same cars are. As you crank the pedals time and again, you know through the consistent effort you will get the same place as the driver of a car would while being able to just take your time, meandering along the coast just cruising the miles with no need to hurry.
The Choice to Bicycle – Life On Two Wheels Made Long Ago
Read more about my Journey in bicycling @ Bicycle Journeys
And as I say to all those who are interested make it a point to RIDE ON!
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